Christa Avampato

Bright and early, we’ll be out and about taking in all that New Delhi has to offer. New Delhi, has a circular Parliament House and an imposing Central Secretariat in two blocks, which stand at the approaches to Rashtrapati Bhavan, the residence of the President of India.  Delhi is today the political, economic and cultural capital of the world’s largest democracy and has also become one of the greatest tourist centers of the world.

(from Wikipedia) New Delhi ⁱ/ˈnjuː dɛli/ is the capital city of India. As the national capital, New Delhi is the seat of executive, legislative, and judiciary branches of the Government of India. It also serves as the centre of the Government of the National Capital Territory of Delhi. New Delhi is situated within the metropolis of Delhi and is one of the nine districts of Delhi Union Territory. The total area of the city of Delhi is 1482 km².^[1][2] New Delhi hosts 145 foreign embassies and high commissions.

The definition of New Delhi is unclear and complex and the differentiation between Delhi and New Delhi is very much blurred. Even adminstratively, the demarcation between Delhi and New Delhi is not clear. Now, almost all of National Capital Territory of Delhi, with exceptions of the old city called Old Delhi, Civil Lines area, Trans-Yamuna region, some rural areas and some underdeveloped parts of Delhi (e.g. Ashok Vihar, Timarpur, Nangloi, Sultanpuri, Mangolpuri, Badarpur etc.), is designated as ‘New Delhi’ in postal addresses. Especially, almost all the places in South, South-west, Central and West districts of Delhi are designated as New Delhi. Most of the time, the terms Delhi and New Delhi are used interchangeably.

New Delhi is known as the microcosm of India^[8] and is one of the world’s top global cities.^[9] It is one of the fastest growing cities in the world and has a total population of nearing 14 million residents. The World Cities Study Group at Loughborough University rated New Delhi as an “alpha- world city“.^[10] In 2010, Knight Frank‘s world city survey ranked it 37th globally.^[11] The National Geographic’s Traveler Magazine describes it as “one of the Ultimate Cities of a Lifetime to visit and explore.”^[12] In a report jointly prepared by Institute for Competitiveness and Confederation of Indian Industry, the city is listed as the best to live in India.^[13][14] According to Mercer, New Delhi is the most expensive city in India for expatriates in terms of cost of living.^[15] New Delhi is known for its wide, tree-lined boulevards and is home to numerous national institutions, museums and landmarks.

Culture

New Delhi is a cosmopolitan city due to the multi-ethnic and multi-cultural presence of the vast Indian bureaucracy and political system. The city’s capital status has amplified the importance of national events and holidays. National events such as Republic Day, Independence Day and Gandhi Jayanti (Gandhi’s birthday) are celebrated with great enthusiasm in New Delhi and the rest of India. On India’s Independence Day (15 August) the Prime Minister of India addresses the nation from the Red Fort. Most Delhiites celebrate the day by flying kites, which are considered a symbol of freedom.^[54] The Republic Day Parade is a large cultural and military parade showcasing India’s cultural diversity and military might.^[55][56]

Religious festivals include Diwali (the festival of light), Maha Shivaratri, Teej, Guru Nanak Jayanti, Baisakhi, Durga Puja, Holi, Lohri, Eid ul-Fitr, Eid ul-Adha, Christmas and Mahavir Jayanti.^[56] The Qutub Festival is a cultural event during which performances of musicians and dancers from all over India are showcased at night, with the Qutub Minar as the chosen backdrop of the event.^[57] Other events such as Kite Flying Festival, International Mango Festival and Vasant Panchami (the Spring Festival) are held every year in Delhi.

New Delhi also has a thriving theatre scene,^[58] with many active theatre groups including Pierrot’s Troupe.

Historic sites and museums

New Delhi is home to several historic sites and museums. The National Museum which began with an exhibition of Indian art and artifacts at the Royal Academy in London in the winter of 1947-48^[62] was later at the end was shown at the Rashtrapati Bhawan in 1949. Later it was to form a permanent National Museum. On 15 August 1949, the National Museum was formally inaugurated and currently has 200,000 works of art, both of Indian and foreign origin, covering over 5,000 years.^[63] The India Gate built in 1931 was inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.^[60] It is the national monument of India commemorating the 90,000 soldiers of the Indian Army who lost their lives while fighting for the British Raj in World War I and the Third Anglo-Afghan War.^[60]

Rajghat is the place where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated on January 31, 1948 after his assassination and his ashes were buried and make it a final resting place beside the sanctity of the Yamuna River. The Raj Ghat in the shape of large square platform with black marble was designed by architect Vanu Bhuta.

Qutb Minar constructed with red sandstone and marble, and is the tallest minaret in India,^[64] with a height of 72.5 meters (237.8 ft), contains 379 stairs to reach the top,^[65] and the diameter of base is 14.3 meters where as the last store is of 2.7 meters.

New Delhi is home to Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum, National Gallery of Modern Art, National Museum of Natural History, National Rail Museum, Nehru Planetarium and Shankar’s International Dolls Museum.^[66]

Historic places in New Delhi include Jantar Mantar, Gandhi Smriti, Buddha Jayanti Park and Lodi Gardens.

After breakfast on board the houseboat, we disembark at Alleppey to transfer to Cochin Airport to board our flight to Delhi. Once there, we will be meeting with my dear friend, Abhilekh, who will be taking us out and about.

Delhi, the capital of India has a fascinating history and a stimulating present.  Delhi has been the seat of a power of a number of dynasties – the Rajputs, the Muslims invaders from the North, the Afghan dynasties followed by Tughlaqs, Sayyads, the Ladies and the Mughals, who continued the Imperial line, until British days.

The old city, built by Shah Jehan in the 17^th century, stands today as an epitome of the whole history of Indo-Islamic architecture.  New Delhi, designed and constructed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker is a mixture of east and west.  The public buildings in red sandstone are in the Mughal style.

(from Wikipedia) Old Delhi (Urdu: پُرانی دلّی Purānī Dillī), walled city of Delhi, India, was founded as Shahjahanabad (Urdu: شاہجہان آباد) by Mughal Emperor Shahjahan in 1639.^[1] It remained the capital of the Mughals until the end of the Mughal dynasty.^[2][3] It was once filled with mansions of nobles and members of the royal court, along with elegant mosques and gardens. Today, it still serves as the symbolic heart of Islamic metropolitan Delhi.

Walls and gates

It is approximately shaped like a quarter cìrcle, with the Red Fort as the focal point. The old city was surrounded by a wall enclosing about 1,500 acres (6.1 km²), with 14 gates^[7]:

1. Nigambodh Gate: northeast, leading to historic Nigambodh Ghat on the Yamuna River
2. Kashmiri Gate: north
3. Mori Gate: north
4. Kabuli gate: west
5. Lahori gate: west
6. Ajmeri Gate: southeast, leading to Ghaziuddin Khan’s Madrassa and Connaught Place, a focal point in New Delhi.
7. Turkman Gate: southeast, close to some pre-Shahjahan remains which got enclosed within the walls, including the tomb of Hazrt Shah Turkman Bayabani.
8. Delhi Gate: south leading to Feroz Shah Kotla and what was then older habitation of Delhi.

The surrounding walls, 12 feet (3.7 m) wide and 26 feet (7.9 m) tall, originally of mud, were replaced by red stone in 1657. In the Mughal period, the gates were kept locked at night. The walls have now largely disappeared,^[8] but most of the gates are still present. The township of old Delhi is still identifiable in a satellite image because of density of houses.

The famous Khooni Darwaza south of Delhi Gate, was just outside the walled city, it was originally constructed by Sher Shah Suri.

Streets and neighbourhoods

The main street, now termed Chandni Chowk, runs from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid. Originally a canal ran through the middle of the street.

North of the street, there is the mansion of Begum Samru, now called Bhagirath Palace. South is the street is Dariba, a dense residential area, beyond which is Jama Masjid. Daryaganj is a section that used to border the river at Rajghat and Zeenat-ul-Masajid.

The language Urdu emerged from the Urdu Bazar section of Old Delhi. The Din Dunia magazine and various other Urdu publications are the reason of this language staying alive.^[9]

Its main arteries are

• Netaji Subhash Marg/Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg leading to India Gate(north and south)
• Chandni Chowk/Khari Bawli Road (east and west)

Old Delhi is approximately bounded by these modern roads (Google map)

• Gokhle Marg (south)
• Mahatma Gandhi Marg road (east)
• Shraddhananda Rd (west)
• Jawaharlal Nehru Marg (south)

The New Delhi originally referred to the newer sections of Delhï (sometimes termed Lutyens’ Delhi) developed during the British administration by Edward Lutyens in 1929 and officially inaugurated in 1931.

Old Delhi in 1876

In 1876, Carr Stephen described the city as follows:^[10]

Of the two streets described by Bernier, the longer extended from the Lahore Gate of the city to the Lahore Gate of the citadel, and the other from the Delhi Gate of the city to the Lahore Gate of the fort. Both these streets were divided into several sections, each of which was known by a different name.

The section between the Lahore Gate of the fort and the entrance of the street called the Dariba, known as the Khuni Darwazah, was called the Urdu or the Military Bazaar; owing, very probably, to the circumstances of a portion of the local garrison having been once quartered about the place. Between the Khuni Darwazah and the present Kotwali, or the Head Police Station of the city, the street has the name of Phul ka Mandi or the flower market. The houses in front of the Kotwali were built at a short distance from the line of the rest of the houses in the street, so as to form a square.

Between the Kotwali and the gate known as the Taraiah, was the Jauhari or the Jewellers’ Bazaar; between the Taraiah and the neighbourhood known as Asharfi ka Katra, was, par excellence, the Chandni Chauk. There was a tank in the centre of the Chauk the site of which is now occupied by the Municipal Clock Tower, and beyond this to the Fatehpuri Masjid was the Fatehpuri Bazaar. The houses round Chandni Chauk were of the same height, and were ornamented with arched doors and painted verandahs. To the north and south of the square there were two gate-ways, the former leading to the Sarai of Jahanara Begam, and the latter to one of the most thickly populated quarters of the city. Round the tank the ground was literally covered with vegetable, fruit, and sweetmeat stalls. In the course of time the whole of this long street came to be known as the Chandni Chauk.

This grand street was laid out by Jahanara Begam, daughter of Shah Jahan. From the Lahore Gate of the fort to the end of the Chandni Chauk the street was about 40 yards wide and 1,520 yards long. Through the centre of this street ran the canal of ‘Ali Mardan, shaded on both sides by trees. On the eastern end of the Chandni Chauk stands the Lahore Gate of the Fort, and on the opposite end the handsome mosque of Fatehpuri Begam).

The clock tower no longer exists. The Sarai of Jehan Ara Begum has been replaced by the city hall. The kotwali is now adjacent to Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib.

Historical spots

Many of the historical attractions are in the Chandni Chowk area and the Red Fort. In addition, Old Delhi also has^[11]:

• Ghalib Ki Haveli that is in Ballimaran is famous for Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib, the renowned urdu and persian poet.
• Gali Qasim Jan that is in Ballimaran is famous for Mirza Ghalib‘s haveli, and that of Hakim Ajmal Khan
• Razia Sultana‘s (Delhi’s only female ruler before Indira Gandhi) tomb near Kalan Masjid
• Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque
• Fatehpuri Masjid
• Khari Baoli, Asia’s biggest spice market
• Zinat-ul Masjid, Daryaganj built in 1710 by one of Aurangzeb’s daughters
• Rajghat, Mahatma Gandhi‘s cremation site memorial
• St. James Church (near Kashmiri Gate) built in 1836, Delhi’s oldest church, built by Col. James Skinner.^[12]

Some of the historical mansions include^[13][14]:

• Begum Samru‘s Palace of 1806 (see [1])now called Bhagirath Palace.
• Naughara mansions in Kinari Bazaar, 18th century Jain mansions.
• Khazanchi haveli
• Haveli of Mirza Ghalib, Gali Qasim Jan that is in Ballimaran
• Chunnamal haveli, Katra Neel
• Haveli of Zinat Mahal, Lal Kuan Bazar
• Haksar Haveli, Bazar Sitaram, where Jawaharlal Nehru was married in 1916 to Kamla Nehru.
• Haveli Naharwali, Kucha Sadullah Khan, where Pervez Musharraf, former president of Pakistan was born

Old Delhi Cuisine

Old Delhi is well known for its cuisine, both vegetarian and Mughlai cuisine. Chandni Chowk is home to the famous Gali Paranthe Wali and Ghantewala halwai.

Old Delhi is the home to legendary Mughlai restaurants such as Karim’s (located in Jama Masjid area) and the Moti Mahal (located in Darya Ganj). There are a plenty of other restaurants in Muslim areas of Old Delhi such as Jama Masjid, Balli Maran, and Chitli Qabar that sell mouth-watering, spicy Mughlai delicacies such as Tandoori Chicken, Butter Chicken, Nahari, Korma, Biryani, Seekh Kebabs, etc.

Old Delhi is also famous for its street food. Chandni Chowk and Chawri Bazaar areas have many street joints that sell spicy chaat (tangy and spicy snacks).

After breakfast in Munnar, we will depart to Alleppey and board our Backwater Houseboat. After lunch on board, we’ll be cruising through Vembanad Lake enroute to visit churches, temple, paddy fields, jungle waterways, narrow lanes, etc.

We’ll be having dinner on the boat and overnighting on board.

Alappuzha or Alleppey  is famous for its boat races, houseboats, coir products, fish and lakes.  Alappuzha remains prominent on the tourist trial of Kerela  as one of the major centers for backwater boat trips.

Alleppey is also known as the “Venice of the East” and it was here that traders from across the seven seas came in search of black gold and souvenirs. Alleppey is also home to Kuttanad, the rice bowl of kerala, one of the very few places in the world where farming is done below sea level.

Alleppey has a wonderful past. Though the present town owes its existence to the sagacious Diwan Raja Kesavadas in the second half of 18th century, district of Alappuzha figures in classical Literature. One of the best things about Alappuzha and Kerala is the weather. Due to its proximity to the ocean it is more temperate than central India. It will be a much welcomed relief!

By a wonderful stroke of synchronicity, my friend, Paul, who is from Kerala, will be visiting his family while we are there. We hope to see him in Alleppey. (Coincidentally, he is also on our return flight home.)

After spending the morning visiting a Jewish Synagogue in Cochin, we will drive to Munnar.

Known as Kashmir of South India, is snuggled into the lap of such an alluring terrain, Munnar is one of the most beautiful hill stations in Kerala. Munnar – an idyllic destination is located at an altitude of 6000 feet above sea level. Munnar derives its name from the Tamil word ‘munnu’ meaning “three” and ‘aar’ means “River”- spelled as Munnar on combining. The town by itself has little other than the tea plantations and a colonial era CSI Christ Church, built in 1910 AD with some fine stained glass windows. Munnar is the final adventure travel destination. We will trek up the hills and mountain ranges nearby; also visiting Tata Tea Museu, Anamudi: the highest peak of South India.

The name Munnar is believed to mean “three rivers”,^[1] referring to the town’s strategic location at the confluence of the Madhurapuzha, Nallathanni and Kundaly rivers. The town has shared a strong cultural link with Tamil Nadu and over 70% of the population of the town being Tamils. ^[2]

Today I’m arriving in Cochin (sometimes referred to as Kochi.) Originally built by the Portuguese, it has a natural harbour with lagoons and canals and fishing hamlets.  One of the three biggest ports on the West Coast, it is also an industrially developed area.  The coir industry is of special importance.  An excursion by boat through the backwaters is enchanting and we’ll be taking that up in just a few days.

Cochin sightseeing include visit Jew Town, Chinese Fishing nets, St.Francis Church, Fort Kochi, The Dutch cemetery, Santa Cruz Basilica,  Matanchery Palace (The Dutch Palace), etc.

I’ll also be attending a Kathakali dance performance show. Stories from epics are presented in this dance-drama. It is a male bastion with female characters also being performed by men. Costumes are colorful and regal with faces painted like masks using natural colors and make-up. A predominant feature of this dance is the intricate facial mime work and eye movements.

Kathakali (Malayalam: കഥകളി, Sanskrit: कथाकेळिः) is a highly stylized classical Indian dance–drama noted for the attractive make-up of characters, elaborate costumes, detailed gestures and well-defined body movements presented in tune with the anchor playback music and complementary percussion. It originated in the country’s present day state of Kerala during the 17th century and has developed over the years with improved looks, refined gestures and added themes besides more ornate singing and precise drumming.

And so, India, our time has finally arrived. I’ve been waiting to meet you for so long. We have planned and plotted as much as we can and as much as I think is necessary. Now we are going to be tangled in each other’s lives for many years to come. I’m ready.

Bring every lesson you have to teach me and every experience you wish for me to have. I will take all of it and understand that this is how it was meant to unfold. You will take care of it all and I will be along for the ride. Let the adventure begin.

(As I don’t know how much time or capacity there will be for checking in online, I may not have any way to update this blog, nor any of my other online hang-outs, for the duration of my trip. Given my very pitta nature, I have written ahead and each day you’ll see where I am and some of my likely activities along with a bit of history about each area I’m visiting. I hope you enjoy it.

As part of my research project for my advanced teacher training at ISHTA, I’m compiling an interactive e-book of my trip and how it affects my yoga practice, my teaching, and my everyday living. That book will be available by the end of the summer, housing all of the pictures, video, and stories that I’ll experience in Incredible India.

I’ll return on May 21st and will be sharing all of the goodness I’ve found across the globe. Until then, be well. Om shanti.)